‘navel-gazing’ Category

  1. a small patch in the garden that you’re still fond of

    May 16, 2013 by amanda

    boysrbackintown

    One chilly night after English conversation club was over, I was off to meet Satoru for a drink when I noticed I had a missed call. It was from Y-kun. My heart fluttered just a tiny bit. Huh. I hadn’t seen him in a while. I hadn’t seen most of those boys in a while. I pulled my jacket tightly around me and called him back as I walked into town.

    “Hey, Amanda, how are you?”

    “I’m fine, how about you? Are things busy in Miyako?”

    “Yeah, same as ever,” he replied. “So, actually, Junya and Sasaken and I are meeting in Morioka this weekend.”

    “Oh?”

    “Yeah, we’re planning on going on a trip together for Golden Week, so we wanted to meet and hash out the details.”

    “Whoah, are you going outside the country?”

    “Haha, no. Just outside the prefecture. But I figured since we were going to be in town that we should call you along too.”

    “Little old me?”

    “Yeah, are you free?”

    I paused, for all the reasons and excuses you’d expect me to pause. Deep breath. Heart pounding, I said, “Yeah, I’m free. When are you meeting?”

    (more…)


  2. 5年目

    April 2, 2013 by amanda

    isan

    It’s April again, and I had to say another round of goodbyes. There’s another empty space now in the division. I-san has been transferred to the Tokyo office, meaning that my oldest friend here is now gone. Meaning I’m now the only one left from 2009, which is kind of weird. There was a time when I was the lowest “kohai” underling in the ranks. And now, timewise, I’m the big sempai. They aren’t going to let me near the big boss’ chair anytime soon though, of course.

    But I’m heading towards the start of my fifth, and final, year as a CIR. Yes, I recontracted – and I didn’t say much about it, just like I haven’t said much about anything at all lately. I’ve been busy, and all that, but I’ve managed to blog fairly regularly during busy periods before. No, I just find myself not really being excited about writing, and not having exciting things to write about. I’m happy, tremendously so, but the funny thing is, I’m not a talented enough writer to make “happy” into something interesting.

    I’m just kind of bored about writing about myself. But I think that’s okay.

    Lest you think that I’m only staying around because I found a man, that is only eighty percent of the reason. I’m actually going to be working on something awesome for my last year here – something that’s going to be using all the skills I’ve gained here, and I know it’s going to be a great experience. I finally get to do something major, and I’m thrilled – I really wanted to get some more responsibility. It’s a risk, and it’s scary, but I know I’m ready for it. And yea, that’s about all the info I can give you for now.

    Compared to the decision to stay a fourth year, staying a fifth year was a relative no-brainer (which many JETs say who make it Unicorn status), and there are a lot of reasons for that. But mostly, the moment I realized I might not be able to stay another year was when I was sure I wanted to. It was made clear to me from the beginning that Iwate doesn’t normally recontract CIRs for even four years. I’m a special case already, and there were a couple weeks last year when I was sure they weren’t going to give me the opportunity. For someone who was sure she was going to leave after the fourth year when she recontracted for it, I was in tears when I found out it probably wasn’t going to be a possibility. Be it from a love of Iwate, a desire not to mess up my fairly new relationship, or even just the inertia of being here for four years, the news hit me like a ton of bricks.

    I remember at the time talking to I-san, wiping tears away from my face, that I didn’t know who would make the final decision, but whoever it was, I wanted them to know that I wanted to stay a final year to do all I could for Iwate. “I know. I’ll tell them,” he nodded.

    A couple weeks later, my bosses suddenly took me aside for a meeting. “As you know,” the director said, “Iwate Prefecture usually only contracts CIRs for three years. You were a special case, because we thought it best to keep you seeing as the other two left last year.”

    “Yes,” I said, looking down. Here it comes. My heart sank, but hey. At least they were taking me aside to tell me personally. My hands clenched into fists on top of my skirt. Brace yourself, honey.

    “But,” the director continued, “this year we have some special projects going on between Iwate and America.” He looked me in the eye, hesitantly, and said, “We want you to stay and help us complete them to the best of our ability.”

    “What?” I straightened up in my chair. “What, really? Of course! Yes! Leave it to me!”

    So that was that. It took a combination of my experience and a whole lot of luck, but I was guaranteed a fifth year. I certainly wasn’t going to mosey off to Tokyo now.

    I had hoped that I would be working on this project with I-san, the friend that had been by my side for four years now. But, 2012-2013 was his fourth year. Iwate Prefectural employees don’t usually stay in one spot for three years, let alone four. But I think I hoped that maybe, just this once, they’d grant an exception. Just like they had granted me one.

    A few weeks ago we heard the results of the personnel transfer for April 2013. “I-san,” our director called him up to the front of the room. He bowed, and handed him a piece of paper with both hands.

    “You’ve been transferred to…the Tokyo office.”

    So, I-san, who I’m pretty sure fought for me to stay my fifth year, is the one going off to Tokyo – and I’m the one staying here. That’s just the way life is, I guess.

    We’ve gone on shopping trips to Sendai, drove through the famed Corridor of Snow, done a camping trip in Akita and watched the setting sun on the west coast, drank like fish on Main Street, listened to each other’s worries and fears. There’s about 20 years between us, and two different cultures – but he always treated me, and R, and X, and everyone else as an equal.

    I’m going to miss working with him a whole lot. But this was going to happen sooner or later, so all I can do is accept it with open arms. Life changes so rapidly and indiscriminately, but it’s only through that change that you can appreciate what you had, I think.

    ***
    “I really did want to work on that project,” sighed I-san.

    “I really wanted to work on it with you,” I agreed. “I don’t really know what I’m going to do – I’m going to have to do this with a person I don’t even know.”

    “You’ll be fine,” he smiled. “All I know is that everything is going to go fine as long as you’re at the helm.”

    I smiled. “Yeah, but without you, I never would have been able to come this far.”

    ***

    His desk is no longer his desk now, just as K-san, and T-san, and R, and X have all left their desks to someone new.

    And next year, in August, I’ll be leaving my desk too. And you know what?

    It’s kind of exciting.


  3. the loneliest hour, inbetween

    February 12, 2013 by amanda

    Photo credit: Reuters/Yuriko Nakao

    Photo credit: Reuters/Yuriko Nakao

    I couldn’t remember a time I had slept so little on a plane back home.

    I had taken the night bus to Tokyo again, thinking it would tire me enough to force me asleep in the dry confined space of the airplane, but I slept in the dry confined space of the bus instead. The plane was full of young Japanese cosmetology students (judging from their hair and attire), American service men and women, and young families with young babies. Just like most flights home to America during Christmas. I had ridden enough now to know.

    I snuggled into the soft, black scarf Satoru had given me for my (our) birthday, and busied myself with movies I didn’t want to watch. (Not surprising coming from a reality tv show lover like myself but: Katy Perry’s Part of Me is actually entertaining.)

    Mom was waiting for me in Philadelphia, with my stepdad and stepbrother. We drove home, the familiar grey skies of winter in the tri-state area above us. Mom had work that night, so she went to bed early. I had a drink with my stepbrother to get myself sleepy, and we talked about gun control rather diplomatically until I was ready for bed. I slept for 11 hours.

    The next night I woke up at 3 in the morning and never got back to bed.

    ***

    (more…)


  4. n.d.e. in a human hamster ball

    February 4, 2013 by amanda

    Photo credit: Let's zorb!

    Photo credit: Let’s zorb!

    Satoru and I went to the local snow festival at Koiwai on a bright Sunday morning. The sun was blistering like a spotlight in our eyes, yet the air was cold as ever. Periodically clouds would cover the sky, dump a few minutes of snowflakes upon us, then clear away to reveal a deep blue sky. The snow sculptures, all made by locals or the Self Defense Force, were a little lumpy, their topmost layer of snow melted into a clear sheet of ice. The snow maze was more like just a straight path from entrance to exit. Kids ran around in vibrantly colored ski-wear. I was wearing my “winter” shorts and tights, but I wasn’t the only visitor so ill-prepared; Satoru was wearing sneakers.

    We met my boss and her family for lunch by the small snow huts, and grilled up lamb meat and vegetables inside the icy interior. Her kids ran in and out of the hut, anxious to start sledding down the giant man-made hill of snow. I sledded once with her eldest daughter on top of a thin piece of plastic – we collided over every single bump in the snow with startling speed. I rubbed my butt as we gathered ourselves up from the snow. I don’t think the two of us fit on that sled anymore, but we had a heck of a time trying.

    Satoru and I wandered off to explore, looking at families riding in horse-drawn carriages over the snow. They were beautiful creatures – deep black coats of warm fur. The first time I had been to Koiwai – in fact, my first weekend in Iwate – I got to pet a horse, gingerly, on the nose. Unfortunately, they had to get rid of the petting zoo almost three years ago now.

    Off to the corner of my eye, I noticed a large plastic ball rolling down a hill with two passengers strapped inside. “Satoru, look!” I pointed.

    Eff yes! I knew what that was. It was a Zorb! I didn’t know what to call it in Japanese so I just said, “a human hamster ball.” I had never done it myself, but I remember my sister taking a trip down to visit my dad around the Smokey Mountains, and her bragging about the experience. I was so jealous. I’m not a skydiving or bungee jumping level daredevil or anything, but I’ve been riding roller coasters since I was like five. I looked up at him; his face had gone slightly grey.

    Satoru and I walked over to see a ball rolling down the hill close up. Distinct screams of terror wafted by as a plastic ball hurtled past us. “Whoah,” I laughed. “That is so awesome!”

    “Look at that,” he murmured.

    “Do you like roller coasters or stuff like that?”

    He shook his head. “Mm, not so much.”

    We watched another pair of riders go down, and I shivered. That was pretty cool, but now it was just about time to warm ourselves up in a nearby building. I turned to go, but Satoru didn’t move.

    He watched one more ball fly down, deep in thought. Then he said, “I kinda think I want to try it now.”

    “You do?!”

    “Yeah.”

    “Seriously?” I asked. “Let’s do it!”

    We got in line at the bottom of the hill, behind groups of young students and a few other daredevil couples. It was freezing, with the wind biting our faces and the ground was so cold that we slipped and slid all over the place as we waited patiently. It took over an hour for us to get to the front, and by that time I was so cold that I couldn’t even shiver anymore. The two of us stared grimly at each other in between huddling together for warmth. We had been pretty brave in the beginning… Ball after ball, passenger after screaming passenger fly down that hill. It was like had resigned ourselves to some dark fate that we couldn’t back out of now.

    My boss and her family found us in line, and said, “Are you crazy? You are crazy!” We were, indeed, crazy.

    They rolled up the next huge plastic ball for us, and Satoru and I climbed inside. I had been outside in the cold so long that I couldn’t feel anything at all anymore except the rapid beating of my heart – an odd mix of adrenaline and numbness. A staff member climbed inside and buckled us into the harnesses. I was facing forward and Satoru was opposite of me. I smiled at him. We both grabbed the handles on either side of us and waited for the staff to give the okay.

    “Okay!” they shouted, and they pushed us off.

    “Here we go!” I said, and my side rolled up gently and then I was in the air above Satoru. His face went wide-eyed with terror and I screamed as the ball suddenly flipped me upside down to the bottom of the ball, with him on top. “Oh my god!” I laughed. “Oh my god!”

    I thought I’d be able to see outside of the ball, but it was just a mess of color and light and mostly white and grey flying all over the place. We hurtled down the hill, bouncing every time one of us was on the bottom of the ball. I was tightly strapped in but my legs flew all over the place; my hands holding on tight; feeling completely trapped in something completely out of control. The only thing I could see was him, his hair all over the place. But he was there, in front of me. In the chaos surrounding us, he and I were in it together.

    We bounded along for a few more bone-wrenching seconds – for a moment I thought we had bounced out of bounds and were flying towards our imminent death. It felt at once like we were totally safe and totally going to die. The ball did eventually roll to a stop, with some help from the staff at the bottom (some balls seemed to need help, and some didn’t. I’m guessing our’s was one of the heavier ones). That was it. It was over. Satoru and I were once again upright, and he looked like a limp rag doll. But he was smiling, and I was laughing so hard I was crying.

    I managed to shakily unbuckle my harness and we crumpled to the bottom of the ball. The staff helped us out, and I trembled as I tried to buckle my boots back on. I could barely stand, my hair was everywhere, and could only manage to produce high-pitched whines instead of words. Satoru slipped towards me on the icy ground, his legs like jello, and we grabbed each other’s arms as we got ourselves out of the way of the next hurtling death-ball. I was terrified. I was ecstatic. I was so dizzy.

    My boss and her family were waiting for us. “Are you alright?” she asked. “Amanda, you’re crying!”

    “No!” I babbled. “It was … it was… it wasn’t fun? but it wasn’t not fun? but it was scary.”

    “I thought we were going to die,” said Satoru.

    “Yeah, but, I think I would do it again, maybe?” I said.

    “Right now?!?” my boss asked.

    “No! No. Maybe in like, another year. Or when it gets warmer?” I glanced at Satoru; his face was blank. “Maybe never!”

    ***

    Shortly afterward, Satoru and I took refuge in the sheep-house facility, which had a small heater in it, surrounded with other people with the same idea. My body was still shaking, and we leaned against each other for support. The down in his winter jacket was the softest thing I’d ever felt. We decided to get some hot drinks from the nearby vending machine, and sat down on a wooden bench. I got coffee; Satoru, a hot chocolate. We sat, silently sipping our drinks, and watched families and their young kids, grandmothers and grandfathers, babies with pink noses, young couples.

    I rested my head against his shoulder. “Thank you for riding the human hamster ball with me.”

    “No, thank you,” he said. “It had looked like so much fun when I was watching from the ground…”

    “Well, now we know,” I giggled. “No regrets!”

    “No regrets,” he smiled.


  5. just like that

    December 21, 2012 by amanda

     amfas179

    One cold day in December, I went to a nearby restaurant for lunch with GJ. As we were taking off our coats to sit down at the counter, someone called out from the table behind us. “Amanda?”

    I turned around, and there was Junya, sitting at the table behind us with a friend. “Oh! Hey..?” I sputtered for a bit, awkwardly, ending on, “Long time no see.”

    We nodded, smiled at each other, and then…went back to our respective conversations.

    We had eaten so many times at this restaurant together.

     

    When I went back to my desk after lunch, I took one last, long look at the photo of him and I taped under the plastic cover of my desk. There we were, in the dusky light, waiting for fireworks. Another photo, placed right above it, was of R and X and I, waiting for those same fireworks.

    Just a heartbeat, and everything has changed.

    I took another photo I had, of R and I and lots of other friends, and placed it over top of Junya. It was time. It was way past time. I just finally noticed, is all.


  6. always sneaking up on you

    December 19, 2012 by amanda

    amfas176

    When I was a small child, I would often join my father and little sister in making fun of my mother for putting on Christmas music when it was still November. She’d start dusting the living room, breaking out the big boxes of decorations, and put on A Charlie Brown Christmas. “Mommm,” I’d say. “It’s too early for Christmas music! This is embarrassing.” She’d smile as she unwrapped a snow globe or a decorative candle and say in a sing-song voice, “I know~”

    This year I started playing Christmas music in the beginning of November.

    I try really hard to keep Christmas alive for myself here. It’s not like Japan doesn’t celebrate or decorate – the blinking lights above Odori Street prove otherwise. But something’s missing. I know the religious element is absent, but I’m a Catholic in name only, so that doesn’t bother me. It could be that I miss the cozy feeling in the air that you get when everyone around you looks forward to going home for the holidays, but the Japanese do that for New Year’s, so it’s not that either.

    Maybe it’s just simply a lack of nostalgia for the holiday here. It’s changing, but for the most part, people didn’t spend their childhoods looking forward to Christmas. Children nowadays are taught to believe in Santa Claus, but I don’t know if it’s the same. I do think parents buy a few presents for their children, and there is a traditional Christmas meal in Japan called “Kentucky Fried Chicken,” but none of the adults have memories of writing letters to Santa Claus or shopping in malls covered in evergreen and sparkle.

    (more…)


  7. the time of your life, in the land of your past

    October 22, 2012 by amanda

    W-kun came to see me the night I was headed off to Narita, a few hours before my night bus. He took one look at my gigantic piece of luggage, a frayed peppermint-patterned ribbon tied neatly around the handle, and asked if I was going to be okay carrying it through the airport. “It just looks heavy,” I said. “I don’t have a smaller bag even though it’s embarrassing as hell dragging this around Japan. Besides,” I smiled, “travelling in the summer means I have that much less to bring back.”

    He took out a small envelope from his pocket. “I got this for you,” he said, taking out an embroidered good luck charm from the local Shinto shrine. “Safe travel” in Chinese characters was stitched in white on baby blue fabric. A small bell tinkled as I took it in my hands. I felt a little ache in my chest. “I’ll miss you,” I said.

    “I’ll be waiting for you,” he said sweetly. I cupped his cheek in my hand.

    I was leaving home.

    +++

    “Yeah, can I have a breakfast sandwich with bacon?” I asked, at the international terminal at Chicago O’Hare.

    “Breakfast ends at 10am,” the lady behind the counter responded without a beat or a smile.

    I looked at my watch. 10:04. I heaved a tremendous sigh and rolled my eyes at her. “Uh, okay, um… what shall I have now?” I meant it as a rhetorical question, not knowing else to say, but it just made me sound like a douchebag. She shifted on her feet as I stared at the menu full of things that I didn’t want to eat for prices I didn’t want to pay. The only things that is ever on time here is the end of the goddam breakfast menu.

    It took them fifteen minutes to make my ten dollar wrap.

    (more…)


  8. an interlude, and the spirit of six

    August 4, 2012 by amanda

    I felt like my life was repeating itself over and over again.

    I had decided to stay in Iwate for another year, which had lifted a tremendous weight off of my shoulders. But the funny thing was, the stress of that decision had taken the focus off the Number One Worry in my life – whether or not I would die alone and childless. There’s a reason all my novels about my life have taken the classic form of a morning soap opera: I’m obsessed with finding someone I can love like a Disney Movie. But anyway, anyone who’s even taking a passing whiff of this saccharine blog knows all that. I had spent a few months driving myself crazy worrying about what path I should take in life, and now that it was all over, I was back to a low-grade constant annoyance that I was alone and everyone else was not.

    Well, I chirped, this is what I’ve decided. I’d rather live independently here in Japan than with a man anywhere else, etc etc. So that was all good. And I knew the value in finding other interests than in boyz, and had done a reasonably good job in following through. I was studying Japanese again, reading voraciously, doing my best to update my blog, keeping my schedule full of interesting people and friends, running 2-3 times a week, outside again even in the cold, biting March wind. Work was going as well as ever, with more interpreting opportunities than ever before.

    I was, in a word, killing it. (well, in two words, but you get the picture)

    (more…)


  9. a sixty ton angel falls to the earth

    June 18, 2012 by amanda

    photo by Mini – Owner

    Roll out those lazy, hazy, crazy, days of summer

    Those days of soda and pretzels and beer

    – “Those Lazy Hazy Crazy Days of Summer” by Nat King Cole

    In the fall, right before my grandparents moved to an apartment ten minutes away from my mother, my grandfather bought a brand new car.

    When my mother told me on Skype, I just started laughing. I could just imagine my mother and my grandmother yelling at him “Are you crazy?!”, and him being stubborn and buying it anyway. Mom just smirked and said it was easy to laugh when you didn’t have to deal with him all the time. He was a gregarious, cheerful, outgoing man, but he was also stubborn and difficult. Buying a new car when he’d only be able to drive for maybe another few years was just like him.

    That Christmas, I bought him a special “Safe Driving” charm from the local Shinto shrine. It was a light blue felted piece of cardboard, embroidered with Chinese characters that I knew he wouldn’t even understand as writing. “Here, Grandpa,” I said. “This is to protect you while you’re driving. It’s Japanese.”

    “Huh? I can’t read this!” he said.

    “It’s like a St. Christopher medal in the car, Dad,” Mom said.

    “It’s for your new car,” I smiled. He shrugged, smiled and put it in his pocket.

    I’m sure he bought the car in preparation for his first summer in a new place, so that he could go to sports games and parades. Because he had always gone to sports games and parades, and he always would. He’d sit on a worn-out lawn chair, with the plastic netting fraying at the edges, and he’d watch the parade go by with a smile on his face. And occasionally, I’d sit with him. I just wish it had more than “occasionally.”

    When I was older and in college, I’d still manage to go to a parade once or twice a year with him. The funny thing was, he would start talking about things I’d never heard him talk about before. Old friends and family members I would never meet. The war, his time in Europe. My parents’ divorce. How much he loved his daughter. Sometimes I wasn’t sure if he was talking to me, or her. I’d usually just sit and listen, not knowing what to say, and he’d talk until he had nothing more to say, and then he would act like he hadn’t said anything at all. Then the parade would be over, and we’d pack up the lawn chairs and put them in the trunk of his car. He always had them in there, just in case.

    I’ve only seen the new car maybe once. I don’t even remember what it looks like.

    +++

    A week after he died, one of my coworkers came up to me during lunch with a small envelope. I smiled at her, thinking it was some sort of translation work, until I got a glance at the characters.

    There’s a Japanese custom where coworkers collect some condolence money for a coworker who has lost a family member; it’s called “koden 香典”. Usually they hand over this money at the funeral, but since I wasn’t able to attend my grandfather’s, they just decided to hand it to me now. I hadn’t even thought of that. I knew about the custom, but I hadn’t even thought…

    “I gathered something from everyone in our division, plus some people who used to be here, like C-kacho,” she explained, pulling out a folded list of names. “I even got some from your friends working on the coast.” Along with my coworkers’ names were S-kun, Y-kun, Potato-san. Junya. My eyes filled with tears, but I smiled anyway.

    My coworkers and friends thought of my and my family, and my grandfather, and I hadn’t expected that. I know it’s a custom, and it’s something that’s expected here, but I didn’t even think that I would be included in something like that. It’s hard to explain. I just know that I’m honored to work with these people, and my life is so much richer for having met them. I don’t even know what else to say.

    I hope that he knew that.

    +++

    There was a general meeting/party for the Prefectural Office Running Club, so I went into town to sit in a warm tatami room with cold beer and good friends. As we were all introducing ourselves and talking about our goals for the year, an older gentleman stood up and starting talking about his recent experience running a 100 (!!) kilometer race.

    “It took me around 11 hours,” he said, to thunderous applause. “I gotta say, it was rough. It was really rough. I thought I was going to give up so many times. But then towards the end, I remembered that my three grandchildren were waiting for me at the finish line. So I gathered my strength, and as I approached, they ran towards me and we went across the finish line, hand in hand.”

    Everybody awwed, and I looked down at my glass. My chest felt tight and my eyes a little hot. I grabbed my beer and steadied my hand.

    This one’s for you, Grandpa.

    There were other Grandpas, and there were other Granddaughters out there. And this was my first reminder that I wasn’t part of that anymore.

    +++

    Lately, on my runs, I imagine that my grandfather is cheering me on from the sidelines whenever I start to get tired. He’s never seen me run, but I could imagine him being there at the finish line of some marathon. But I’ve done these sort of things before – imagining the Most Beautiful Man run alongside me or that my friends on the coast would be pushing me forward. Okay, so I have fever dreams because I’m a weenie who still can’t run a little bit of distance without wanting to be lazy.

    But on my last run, at about the halfway mark I looped by the industrial district and started heading home when I suddenly felt a bit strange. As I imagined my grandfather, he suddenly seemed to be right there beside me, running with me. I’ve only known my grandfather as an old man, but he seemed younger, maybe in his 30s or 40s. Of course, there was nothing actually there, but I just felt like he was running with me. On a narrow gravel road through an orchard, he was running with me.

    I don’t know if I believe in Heaven or an afterlife. I was raised Catholic, so that belief in angels and life after death is always going to be there, in some way. Even if it’s just because I’m afraid of death and dying, and I really hope that this is not all there is. I’m not really superstitious, and I don’t believe in ghosts, but I don’t know. I just felt something. Maybe it was only my own mind. Maybe the rhythm of the music and the rhythm of my feet had lulled my brain into a trance. All I knew was I wasn’t so tired anymore.

    Around the end of my run, I had snapped out of it. It felt like he had looked around, and saw my life. He saw what made me so happy here. He saw the people I love. And he saw that I was going to be okay. My grandpa, who never made it to Japan. Maybe in some way, he could do that now.

    He always used to ask me when I was coming home. I just had a feeling that he had finally seen where home was for me, as we ran through vegetable fields in Morioka.

     

    always the summers are slipping away

    find me a way for making it stay

    - Trains, by Porcupine Tree


  10. worn down by a thousand paper [cranes]

    May 25, 2012 by amanda

    “So,” the taxi driver smiled at us through his rear-view window, “where are you from?”

    Morioka, I thought, but I knew that wasn’t the answer he was looking for. “I’m from America.”

    “Me too,” said E.

    “I’m from England,” said W.

    “Well, now!” said the taxi driver. “Isn’t this just so international? You came all the way out to Sendai for the marathon?”

    “Um, we live in Japan,” I said. “I live right up in Morioka.”

    “Isn’t that something. Your Japanese is so good! How long have you been here?”

    “I’ve been living in Iwate for 3 years.”

    “Three years and you’re already that good?”

    Okagesama de,” I said. It’s all thanks to you, even if in reality it had nothing to do with him. It’s a phrase that “only Japanese would say,” or something like that, even though it’s the most natural way to cap off the conversation and I learned it like 5 years ago. But heck. I’ve been having this conversation once a day since I started learning Japanese (which, for those keeping track, was seven and a half years ago). They don’t deviate from the script, but I don’t anymore either.

    ON THE OTHER HAND

    Every time I go home to America, I consider myself the Destroyer of the Japanese Dream:

    “Amanda! You must love the food over there. It’s gotta be so much healthier than the stuff we eat here!” All I see are people scarfing down fried foods and beer, just like here. They eat a little less is all, and walk a little more. There are plenty of chubby people too, by the way.

    “The prices of everything must be so high!” Maybe the price of living is high in Tokyo, but it’s high in New York City too. I live in a small urban area with plentiful public transportation – I have cheaper bills than you do.

    “It’s gotta be great, living around people who pride themselves on honor.” What does this even mean? This is on the level of thinking that there are still samurai and ninjas roaming the land, and that people commit seppuku (pronounced harry-karry) if they cause their boss “loss of face” (a phrase I know exists, but I have heard exactly zero times). 

    “I bet people watch anime and manga like all the time. It seems so awesome!” No. No. No.

    “I could never live there!”

    “It just is such a safe country.” Hmm. Well, that one you’re right about – if you exclude the perverts and stalkers, I guess.

    +++

    So, my point is:

    PEOPLE MAKE ASSUMPTIONS.

    You can call them microaggressions if you like.

    Let’s be clear: I believe in the concept of microaggressions – the small, subtle, unconscious things that the majority says that end up “othering” minorities. It happens here, it happens in the United States. One of these microaggressions isn’t going to hurt at all, but when you face them day in and day out, you start to feel worn down. You feel frustrated. When you get it from everyone – from people who should know better, even people who’ve lived abroad themselves – you really start to despair that you will ever be taken seriously as an equal.

    I know. Oh boy, do I know.

    But this is just a word of advice for my fellow ex-patriates in Japan (which you can take or leave, considering I’m just a young person who’s only lived here for 4 years). You can choose to not focus on it so much. I know “microaggressions” are a real buzzword right now, and I don’t intend to dismiss anyone’s feelings about the matter. But there’s no use in indulging the need to vent about them more than once in a while. It feels good, to talk about things with other foreigners that you could never approach a Japanese person about, because obviously a microaggression at its core is something you can’t confront. They did not mean any harm, you know they didn’t mean any harm, and if you bring it up you just come across as “too sensitive”. Ugh, right? So yes, I think there’s a need for a safe space to talk about things like that.

    But I’ve noticed something troubling. All this talk about microaggressions in the Japanese blogging world is getting poisonous. It’s legitimizing the need to vent about innocent if incessant icebreakers – “Where are you from? Can you use chopsticks?” – and turning it into a pseudo-science. And this is coming from someone who understands where it’s coming from. I know it’s frustrating. There are days I literally cannot have that conversation about where I am from one more time. Sometimes I just have to get out of there. But it’s not personal. When the taxi driver asks you this, it’s not personal. This is what his society molded him into, just like your society molded you into someone who sometimes makes inappropriate and blind assumptions. It’s not personal. It will be so much better for your own health if you focused on the good things that are keeping you in Japan – and I know, for me, there are a hell of a lot of good things here.

    Microaggression was a word used to describe the experience of minorities (blacks, asians, hispanics) by an oblivious majority (white people). It’s interesting to extrapolate the concept to our lives in Japan, but I don’t believe it’s exactly the same situation. Let’s recognize the concept, and then let’s talk about other things. There’s no good in letting yourself get so worn down by a thousand paper cuts that you have no strength to face the big things in life. Look at your life and look at the people supporting you. These are the things that you have control over. Japan is not some monolithic culture working its damndest to keep you out. There’s just people. And people can be stupid, even when you think they shouldn’t be.

    +++

    I-san and I and another couple of friends were sitting at our local joint, drinking a few beers after work. He was talking about his trip to Germany last year when suddenly he tilted his head towards me. “You know, there was something that happened to me there that reminded me of you and R and X.”

    “Did someone call you a gaijin or something?”

    “Well, I was asking for some directions, and I suppose they could tell that I wasn’t a native English speaker, plus they could tell from looking at me that I was Japanese. So they asked, Are you Japanese? Really? Why are you here? How do you like it in Germany? etc etc.”

    “That’s pretty friendly of them,” I smiled.

    “Yeah, they were very nice. But it occurred to me that that conversation that I had with them is something that you have every single day of your life here. And I just thought that would get very tiring after a while.”

     

     ”The reality is simpler: the people who “get it” are the smart, empathetic people. They’re likely distributed about as evenly here in Korea as they are anywhere else, which is to say, they are a minority, but not necessarily a tiny one. It is also to say that back home, the truly smart people are a minority — the HSP expat, in all statistical likelihood, is not one of them. That, of course, is too much to face… so the mind avoids this particular calculation, and returns to the self-contradictory position that this or that culture somehow makes people stupid, with of course the exception of those whom it doesn’t make stupid.”

    – Gord Sellar, talking about life and microaggressions for ex-pats in Korea but in a way that relates to ex-pats in Japan as well. It’s a fascinating read and far more thoughtful than Debito’s original piece.